For thirty minutes, under the punishing midday sun, Taiwan’s capital Taipei rehearsed for war.
Presidential alerts began blaring on cell phones at 1:30pm on Thursday across this city of more than two million people: “[Air Defense Drill] Missile attack. Seek immediate shelter.”
Then came the air raid sirens, bouncing off rows of concrete apartment blocks and office towers. The shrill, ominous sound is instantly recognizable, and for anyone who’s experienced the real thing, gut-churning.
Police with loud whistles began shouting and ordering all traffic to pull over. Drivers had to abandon their cars at blinking traffic lights and seek shelter. Buses sat idle and empty in the middle of normally bustling streets.
Civil defense volunteers in yellow vests guided people into shelters, basements, and underground malls.
The MRT – Taipei’s gleaming, air-conditioned subway system – kept running, though passengers were told to remain on platforms.
At ground level, the city emptied. Businesses closed their doors as customers and employees watched the streets empty in seconds. It almost felt like you’d traveled back in time to the worst days of the coronavirus pandemic.
The reason for this annual drill is the unspoken but ever-present threat of an attack or invasion by Taiwan’s giant neighbor to the north. China’s Communist Party claims Taiwan as its own territory, to be taken by force if necessary.
While democratic Taiwan has long been used to those threats, Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, the increasingly shrill rhetoric from Chinese leader Xi Jinping and conflict in the Middle East have thrown into sharp relief what could be at stake if peace falters.
“I feel nervous when I hear the siren. While China has been there all along, when the sirens go off, it reminds me of that large threat next to us,” said Carl Chu, a Taipei resident. “War could happen anytime. We need to shoulder our own responsibility, be prepared and know how to protect ourselves.”
Jessica Fang, another Taipei resident, added: “Many used to view these drills as a mundane routine. But because of what happened in Ukraine and Israel, this year it feels closer to home. War could happen whether you want it or not, so you have to be prepared for that possibility. These drills make us take it more seriously.”
Rescuers and volunteers take shelter during an air raid drill as part of the annual Han Kuang military exercises, in Taipei, Taiwan, 17 July 2025. – Ritchie B Tongo/EPA/Shutterstock
For the first time this year, Taiwan combined its two major civil defense exercises, Wan An and Min An, into a single, island-wide rehearsal: the 2025 Urban Resilience Exercise, staged in conjunction with Han Kuang 41, the country’s largest-ever military simulation.
This year’s drills are ten days, twice as long as before. The timing is no accident. Tensions with Beijing remain high. While polls suggest most Taiwanese don’t believe an invasion is imminent, the government is preparing with focus and urgency.
Beyond sirens and evacuations, the drill included mass casualty simulations and emergency supply drops. In Neihu, outside the Tri-Service General Hospital, the military staged a live response to an imagined missile strike. Medics in full protective gear treated mock victims as nearby roads were sealed off.
Across Taiwan, more than 22,000 reservists, nearly 50 percent more than last year, are involved in scenarios ranging from urban combat to cyber defense.
In recent days, soldiers have conducted drills in subway tunnels and exhibition halls, converting civilian infrastructure into test battlegrounds.
The Ministry of Defense has emphasized both military readiness and public engagement, including new outreach to foreigners in Taiwan with instructions in English explaining what to do and where to go.
The government is also urging citizens to download shelter maps, learn evacuation routes, and recognize the distinct siren tones.
When the all-clear sirens finally sounded, Taipei quickly bounced back to normal.
Within seconds, traffic and pedestrians returned to the streets as folks carried on with their days and tried to beat the summer heat and humidity. Most believe the next time they hear sirens, it’ll be another drill.
But these days, nobody can be sure.
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